SUSTAINABILITY OF HANDCRAFTED LEATHERWORK IN ZAMFARA STATE, NIGERIA: ADDRESSING VALUE-CHAIN CONSTRAINTS AND CULTURAL HERITAGE LOSS

Abstract

This study investigates the uncertain sustainability of traditional handcrafted leatherwork in Zamfara State, Nigeria, where centuries-old vegetable tanning processes (jima) and intricate Hausa embroidery are being quickly degraded by long-term armed banditry. Drawing on secondary data from policy documents, displacement reports, and existing value-chain studies, supplemented by semi-structured interviews with six key informants in Gusau, the paper identifies severe disruptions across the leather value chain: road ambushes and illegal tolls have increased transport costs by 300–400 %, collapsed rural hide collection, and deepened financial exclusion, while fear of abduction has reduced apprenticeship intake by over 75 % since 2018. Cultural transmission of specialised knowledge and symbolic motifs is breaking down as communal tanning pits go silent and youth migrate or quit the art. However, there are still pockets of resilience, such as direct sales to Lagos designers made possible by WhatsApp, an increase in the demand for ethical leather that can be traced worldwide, and preliminary efforts to obtain Geographical Indication certification. Integrating global value chain governance, intangible cultural heritage preservation, and conflict-sensitive sustainable livelihoods frameworks, the paper contends that banditry now operates as the main chain governor, turning buyer-driven dynamics into violence-driven ones. Practical recommendations include secure micro-clusters, digital marketing training for youngsters, GI branding, and traceable provenance systems to reconnect craftsmen to premium markets while protecting living heritage. Zamfara's distinctive red goat leather faces extinction within a generation if focused, culturally grounded remedies are not implemented.